Crochet Intarsia - Reversible Crochet - Crochet Colour Change - Tutorial

Intarsia - a method of knitting or crochet with a number of colours, in which a separate length or ball of yarn is used for each area of colour. Intarsia blanket should be worked with separate balls of yarn for each colour segment. The yarn that is not in use should be always kept on wrong side of work and used in each following row for corresponding colour segment of design. It needs to be cut off with approximately 5 cm end left only when a particular colour segment is completed. All remaining yarn ends should be weaved in after the whole blanket body is finished.

1. Work required number of stitches for the first colour segment with corresponding colour yarn. It is green in example 1. Do not complete the last dc(sc) of that segment leaving two loops on your hook. Leave green yarn on the wrong side of your work. Do not cut it off. Take the next colour yarn. It is red in the above example.

2. Complete the last dc(sc) of the first green segment by pooling the loop of red yarn through two loops on your hook. Both green yarn and short red yarn end should be left on the wrong side of your work.

3. Continue working required number of stitches for the second colour segment (red). Do not complete the last dc(sc). Join separate ball of yarn that is required for the next colour segment. It is green in example 3. Do not cut off red yarn. Leave it on the wrong side of your work. Complete the stitch with green colour yarn as described in steps 1 and 2.

4. If your design requires one of the colour segments to be expanded for a number of stitches (it is red in example 4), you should pull corresponding yarn (red) long enough to reach the last unfinished stitch of previous segment and complete that stitch.

5-6. Short length of red yarn is positioned above two green stitches. Next dc(sc) should be worked over both two loops of next green stitch and red yarn that is laying on top of it. Work the next dc(sc) exactly the same way. 

Continue working dc(sc) in every dc(sc) of red colour segment.

7-8. If the same colour segment (red) is required to be expanded on another side (left), pick up the yarn that corresponds to the next colour segment (green) from wrong side of work. Place it on top of stitches and continue working dc(sc) in required number of stitches with red colour yarn over both two loops of dc(sc) of previous row and green yarn that is laying on top of that stitch. Do not complete the last dc(sc) with red. Leave red yarn on the wrong side of your work and complete the stitch with green that was brought through.

Read Full Article

Newborn Baby Blanket - Free Crochet Pattern

This product is intended solely for non-commercial home use. Reproduction or distribution of this publication is prohibited unless specially authorized.

This pattern is described using UK crochet terms. American crochet terms are stated in round brackets throughout pattern description.

Finished size: 30” (75.5cm) x 30” (75.5cm)

Materials: any DK 100% acrylic yarn (can be made in any type of DK yarn such as wool, wool blends, cotton, etc.), 4.0 mm (G/6) and 3.25 mm (D/3) crochet hooks, yarn needle, 2 dark colour beads (for bear eyes).

Gauge:18 dc(sc) and 22 rows = 10 cm Work same as Motif Body for 22 rows. Finish off.

Crochet Abbreviations:

ch - chain

dc - double crochet

sc - single crochet

tr - treble

dtr - double treble

reverse dc(sc) - reverse double (single) crochet

tr(dc) cluster - treble (double crochet) cluster

 

 

Description:

Using following charts from Row 1 to last Row 44 and instructions below make 9 motifs and  join them together (Fig.4). Each motif consists of a motif body and a border. Make a border around whole blanket after joining all motifs together. Embroider fine details with a chain and back stitches for bear snout and line on his belly (Fig.1 and Fig.5), baby’s nose and eyes (Fig.3 and Fig.9), letters (Fig.2 and Fig. 13). Sew on a flower (Fig.8) , dummy (Fig.9) and 2 beads to create bear eyes (Fig.1 and Fig.5).

MOTIF BODY

Ch 41

Row 1: (Right side): dc(sc) in second ch from hook and each ch across: 40 dc(sc).

Rows 2 – 44: Ch 1, turn; dc(sc) in each dc(sc) across; at end of Row 44;  do not finish off.

MOTIF BORDER

Rnd 1: With right side facing, ch1, work 42 dc(sc) evenly spaced across end of rows; working in free loops of beginning chain, 3 dc(sc) in first chain, dc(sc) in next 18 ch across, 2 dc(sc) in next ch, dc(sc) in next ch and each ch across to ch at base of last dc(sc), 3 dc(sc) in next ch; work 42 dc(sc) evenly spaced across end of rows, 3 dc(sc) in first dc(sc) in Row 44, dc(sc) in next 18 dc(sc), 2 dc(sc) in next dc(sc), dc(sc) in next dc(sc)  and  each dc(sc) across to last dc(sc), 3 dc(sc) in last dc(sc); join with slip stitch to first dc(sc): 174 dc(sc).

 Rnd 2: Slip stitch in next dc(sc), ch 3 (counts as first tr(dc)), ch 1, tr(dc) in the same dc(sc), *skip 2 dc(sc), [tr(dc), ch1,tr(dc)] in next dc(sc)*, repeat from* to* 12 more times, skip 2 dc(sc), **[2 tr(dc), ch2, 2 tr(dc)] in next dc(dc) (centre dc(sc) of a corner 3-dc(sc) group)**; repeat from* to* 13 times, skip 2 dc(sc), repeat from** to**, repeat from* to* 14 times, skip 2 dc(sc), repeat from** to**, repeat from* to* 13 times, skip 2 dc(sc), repeat from** to**, join with slip stitch to first tr(dc).

Rnd 3: Ch 1, dc(sc) in same stitch, dc(sc) under ch 1 of the previous row, dc(sc) in next tr(dc), *dc(sc) in next tr(dc), dc(sc) under ch 1 of the previous row, dc(sc) in next tr(dc)*, repeat from* to* 12 more times, **dc(sc) in next 2 tr(dc), 3 dc(sc) under ch 2 of the previous row, dc(sc) in next 2 tr(dc)**, repeat from* to* 13 times, repeat from** to**, repeat from* to* 14 times, repeat from** to**, repeat from* to* 13 times, repeat from** to**, join with slip stitch to first dc(sc), finish off: 190 dc(sc).

BLANKET BORDER

Rnd 1: With right side facing, join Cranberry Pink colour yarn with slip stitch in centre dc(sc) of any corner 3-dc(sc) group; ch 1, reverse dc(sc) in same dc(sc), reverse dc(sc) in next dc(sc) and each dc(dc) around; join with slip stitch to first dc(sc), finish off.

FLOWER MOTIF

With Rose Pink colour yarn ch 4, join last ch to the first ch with slip st to form a ring.

Rnd 1: *[3 tr(dc) cluster, ch 2] into the ring*, repeat from* to* 4 more times, join with slip st to first 3 tr(dc) cluster, finish off.

Rnd 2: join Blue colour yarn with slip st under any ch 2 of previous round, 4 dc(sc) under the same ch 2 of the previous round, skip 3 tr(dc) cluster, *4 dc(dc) under next ch 2 of previous round, skip 3 tr(dc) cluster*, work from* to* to the end of round, join with slip stitch to first dc(sc), finish off.

Rnd 3: join Cranberry Pink colour yarn with slip stitch to first dc(sc) of any 4-dc(sc) group of previous round, *ch 3 (counts as first tr(dc)), tr(dc) in the same dc(sc), 2 dtr(tr) in next 2 dc(sc), 2 dtr(tr) in next dc(sc), 2 tr(dc) in next dc(sc), slip stitch in next dc(sc)*, repeat from* to* to the end of round, finish off leaving longer yarn for sewing the flower motif on the blanket.

DUMMY MOTIF

With White colour yarn and crochet hook No3.25 (D/3) ch 3, join last ch to the first ch with slip stitch to form a ring.

Rnd 1: ch 1, 8 dc(sc) into the ring, join with a slip stitch to first dc(sc), finish off: 8 dc(sc).

Rnd 2: join Cranberry Pink colour yarn with slip stitch to any dc(sc), ch1, 2 dc(sc) in the same dc(sc), 2 dc(sc) in next dc(sc) and each dc(sc) across to the end of row, join with slip stitch to first dc(sc), finish off: 16 dc(sc).

 

 

 

 

MOTIF BODY CHARTS

 

Read Full Article

Crochet Intarsia - Weaving in Yarn Ends to Achieve a Perfect Reverse Blanket Side

The most common question that I am asked is how a reverse side of my intarsia blankets looks like. My answer is as neat as a front.

Any intarsia design isn't complete until the ends are woven in. So I have decided to create a picture tutorial on how I weave in “yarn tails” on the back side of my blankets.

I have seen many tutorials on this topic and noticed that other knitters and crocheters use a tapestry needle for this activity. I don’t. I personally prefer using a smaller size hook. However, there is no “wrong” or “right” and you should choose a tool that you are comfortable with.

I usually start from the top of my blanket working downwards. Use the nearest colour segment of your design to hide a yarn end of the same colour. Lead your yarn end along the border (outline) of that colour segment (Fig.1, 9).

Insert the hook in a loop or a stitch at the boundary of two design colour segments. In this case – white and pink areas (Fig.2). Pull the yarn “tail” through. Repeat the same step few more times – about 2-4 cm (Fig. 3-8). Cut off the remaining end leaving about 5 mm. Do not cut too close to the fabric otherwise the end can pop out on a right side of your blanket.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Read Full Article

Handmade Baby Blanket is a Labour of Love. It is the Ultimate Baby Shower Gift!

When it comes to baby showers, there are lots of different gifts you can crochet for a newborn baby. I have decided to undertake a research of what happy mums appreciate the most as a shower gift and came to a conclusion that handmade items are the most loved and appreciated. Handmade treasures make memorable baby shower gifts. Crochet and knitted blankets are a wonderful addition to any nursery.

Every baby must have at least one special blanket that can be washed and hidden into a keepsake memory box afterwards. Keeping this in mind I have designed “It’s a Girl” and “It’s a Boy” crochet blankets that, I hope, could become very special gift for a very special baby :)

MOODBOARD

 

 

I wanted my design to communicate softness, light, spring blossom, warmness, cuteness and tenderness. Thus, when creating my moodboard, I have carefully selected images that, in my opinion, correspond to the above mention very well. Looking at a sleeping newborn baby fills any heart with tenderness. Bunnies are cute, fluffy and soft creatures that evoke adoration. Rounded shapes and curvy lines also provide my design with soft and tender tone of voice.

COLOURS

Pink! Girls must have pink!  I believe, it is not a must. However, it is some kind of convention. So I am following the rules :) Also pink colours are warm and correspond with my design idea. Baby pink and white represent spring blossom and light with a splash of brighter pink and a hint of grey to break plain look.

Keeping in mind what I want to achieve yarn sourcing has been done. Here are my findings: New Fashion acrylic yarn by Woolcraft – 100 gr per ball – 300 m:

White (Shade: 7F76)

Baby Pink (Shade: 2F79)

Fondant (Shade: 291H)

Silver Cloud (Shade: 1000)

Black (Shade: 940)

Idea Generation and Development

Well… I spent some time working on the main character of my design sketching and rendering a lot. I am so pleased with what I have achieved! Meet newborn bunny girl!

I have placed my sleeping bunny within a circle that symbolizes family circle and security provided by loving parents.

 

 

 

 

CROCHETING IN PROGRESS...

Day 1

I always start my blankets at bottom right corner working upwards. Sometimes I prefer not to crochet very small details of design, but to cross stitch them over after blanket is completed. I noticed that, when  yarn “tails” are weaved in within small parts of design, those parts become much thicker than the rest of the item texture and does not look and feel right.

Thus, I have decided to cross stitch apostrophe between “It” and “s”, dots of "i" and exclamation mark as well as bunny’s eyelids.

Day 2

More yarn balls (bobbins), more tangles, but it is so exciting to see its growing!!!

Day 3

This is the hardest part as there are up to 16 separate balls of yarn are in work at the same time. A lot of people find it very frustrating to deal with yarn tangles. I would like to give you few tips on how I deal with it.

1. Make actual balls of yarn by hand and keep them in a box or bucket during crocheting. Round shape helps them to rotate easily within the box.

Some people prefer to use special plastic bobbins or pegs where a bobbin secures the yarn from unwinding. You can do that too if you are comfortable with it. I choose not to use bobbins. I find it a waste of time unwinding every bit of yarn when I need to crochet a small segment of design. I love my rhythm when I am crocheting.

 

2. Keep your yarn box at a lower level to your crocheting.

For instance, if you are sitting on the chair have your box on the floor. It will help a certain length of yarn to hang freely and to be pulled out easily when you need it.

 

3. Alternate clockwise and anticlockwise rotation of your work at the end of row.

I find this action very useful to reduce yarn tangling. Following this rule will not make your crocheting completely tangle free, however, it will reduce it a lot. At the end of row 1 rotate/turn your work clockwise. Complete row 2 and rotate/turn anticlockwise. At the end of row 3 – clockwise, keep alternating your rotations in every following row.

 

4. Do not forget to remove yarn that is no longer in use.

When a segment of design is completed and corresponding yarn is no longer in use, cut it off leaving a 5 to 10 cm “tail” to be weaved in later. Remove that ball of yarn from your box. Fewer balls - less tangles – easy to crochet!

 

5. Pay less attention to your yarn balls. Let them be. You should be enjoying the process rather than spending your time by unravelling tangles every couple of rows. I start unravel my tangles only when I am not able to pull yarn out easily :) Thus, I did it just a couple of times during current project.

Day 4 - 6

Finally the blanket body is completed. I am happy with outcome.

Just few bits are left to be added:

Cross stitching of bunny’s eyelids and dots within lettering Weaving yarn ends in Steaming

How to weave in yarn ends to achieve a perfect reverse blanket side >>> Read in the following article >>>

Read Full Article